FinishingTips

Finishing can mark out a garment as being top notch rather than a hurried thrown together item.
Properly finishing can affect the way a piece of clothing sits on the body, how well it wears and how professional it looks.
I see many makers nowadays using shortcuts, time is money and I understand that top stitching and pressing are easily bypassed in the rush to get something finished.
At Dark Star Designs we press and top stitch, constructing the garments to last as long as possible.
If you are thinking of sewing something for yourself or your child it is always worth the extra investment of time to do the following during construction.

Neck ribbing is top stitched down on Dark Star Design's t-shirts

• Pressing seams during construction is really important especially if working with a non stretch woven fabric. When doing this make sure you are pressing rather than ironing.
• Top Stitching on all fabrics can help a seam lie flat and help garments that are reversible stay together correctly once washed.
• Finishing stitches - knotting and hiding the ends gives a clean finish. This applies to hand stitching, and all sewing machines whether they are just doing a straight stitch or overlocking.
• Using a blind stitch where appropriate can ensure the look of that part of the garment is not distorted by a technique where the stitches are visible and prominent, such as suit trousers
• Setting stitches by pressing as you sew helps achieve a clean line
• Back stitching at the end of a line of stitching ensures the stitches hold fast through wear and washing.
• Grading the seam allowance can really help if you are making a reversible garment or are using bulky fabrics.
• Using the right needle and thread for the job. Using an incorrect needle can split the fabric fibres or leave unsightly holes as you stitch. The right thread again ensures longevity of the garment.
• Notching and clipping curved seams so the fabric lies flat

Top stitching on a reversible pinafore really helps the garment keep it's shape